Second Honeymoon in Italy


Italy exceeded our hopes and dreams. Our two week vacation in Italy was a celebration of our 25th wedding anniversary. In 14 days, we visited 5 locations in central and northern Italy, including the regions of Lazio (Rome), Emilia Romagna (Riccione), Toscana / Tuscany (Torrita di Siena, Firenze / Florence), and Veneto (Venezia / Venice).

Here, we share photos and commentary. You can click on the photos to enlarge the view. We'll go into some detail about the background of the trip and planning. People have been asking for a list of recommendations. We are happy to offer our Italy vacation itinerary.

Here are the five spots - each of which we highly recommend.

Rome

Riccione

Torrita di Siena

Florence

Venice

How We Planned our Italy Vacation

You've heard of the "six degrees of separation?" It's the idea that everyone is connected to everyone else in the world through no more than six connections...a friend of a friend of a friend. That's how we planned our second honeymoon in Italy.

Ok, so Rich is on the phone in Indianapolis interviewing a job candidate in Germany. Anja's CV indicates she speaks multiple languages, including Italian, and she has an Italian last name. So Rich says to her at the end of the interview, "Sally and I are planning our 25th anniversary in Italy and we don't want to use a tour group. Do you have any suggestions for us?"

Anja tells us her best friend owns a hotel in the seaside resort town of Riccione. Marina is like a sister to Anja, and she's sure Marina will help us. Between Marina, Daniela, and Eleonora at the Belvedere Hotel, they lay out 14 days of incredible fun. We tell them the types of places we want to visit - mixing big cities and site seeing with small towns; big hotels with small hotels and bed and breakfasts.

The Books We Used for Our Italy Vacation Prep

There are three key books we purchased to help us learn about traveling to Italy. We bought more than these, but the three Italy books we list here are the ones we recommend. If you want to buy the books, the titles link you to Amazon.com.

Rick Steves' Italy
This is an awesome book for newbies like us traveling to Italy. If you've done international vacation travel, you've probably heard about his series. This book is more than a guide book. It gives tips for making the most of your trip, such as where to find the information centers, days and hours of operation of the key sites, and even recommendations on ristorantes. It even recommends you rip out the sections of the book you need and not take the whole thing with you. I guess that sells more books to return travelers ;-)

Eyewitness Travel Guides - Italy
One of the quotes on the back of this book is the best description. New York Times Syndicate says, "Eyewitness Travel Guides are marvels of writing, color photography, and illustration. Plenty of bright colors and photos to make this jam-packed book easy to browse. It has cutaways and floor plans of all the major sites, walks, scenic routes, and thematic tours. We stuck little post-it tabs on the relevant sections, which made it easy to flip to areas of specific interest to us.

Eating & Drinking in Italy
This is a pocket-style book that is great for first time visitors to Italy. It is primarily an Italian to English dictionary of every food and drink under the sun. The book begins with an overview of tipping instructions, mealtimes, and an overview of foods and drink in each of the regions. We photocopied the pronunciation guide page. Learning that guide was one of the best things we could've done short of learning some phrases. We were able to pronounce words on signs and in menus even if we didn't know what they meant. :-) We also learned several of the Useful Phrases. They were indeed useful.

Packing the Essentials

In the book, Rick Steves' Italy, he recommends that packing lightly is the way to go. He says that if the trip involves a lot of traveling between locations, keeping the luggage down to a single carry on bag per person can be a good alternative. Can you imagine going to Italy for two weeks and only taking a carry on bag?

Well, that's what we did. He is right about staying nimble. It was difficult to do, and we did laundry a couple of times, but it worked. Having a single suitcase let us move quickly between planes, trains, and automobiles.

What about all the wonderful gifts purchased for family and friends while we were there? Easy. We shipped it home.

Day 1: Rome in the Afternoon

We flew into Rome and took the train to the main Roma Termini.

With some help from an older gentleman, who didn't speak English, but knew the hotel, we hopped on a bus together and he took us to the proper stop. Very nice of him. Here is a picture of The Sofitel Roma.

Our first meal in Italy was at a small place called Pomodorino (as in tomato). We had eggplant wrapped around ham and cheese with tomato sauce, crostini with various toppings, such as tomatoes, anchovies, and pate. To us, it was a late lunch, but we quickly learned first hand about siesta time. At 1:30 pm, the place filled up.

After lunch, we walked to Piazza di Spagna, "Spanish Steps," site of the Spanish embassy to the Vatican for the past 300 years. There are hundreds of steps leading to a panoramic terrace view of the Pincio. From there, we could see the Vatican wall and St. Peter's Basilica dome. Beautiful.


At the foot of the steps is the Sinking Ship Fountain, one of several fountains in Rome powered by an aquaduct.


We walked to the Piazza del Popolo and took a few more photos. We visited the Leonardo di Vinci Museum of working machines and inventions. The displays were working replicas of his designs.


Rich was wearing shorts, and thus did not meet the dress code for entering a church. Sally visited the twin cathedrals on the Piazza del Popolo and took a few photos.











We stopped at the Canova Tea Room, a cafe located on the piazza. Wonderful Italian experience sitting and talking, people watching, sipping on our cappacino, and eating our gelato and pastries.

Day 1: Rome in the Evening

We headed back to the Sofitel Roma, got settled in our room to get ready for the evening. On our way, we passed the Piazza Colonna and its AD 180 Column of Marcus Aurelius. The spiraling reliefs commemorate his victories over the barbarian tribes of the Danube.

Rick Steves' book suggests a "Night Walk Across Rome." The first stop for us that evening was the Trevi fountain. It was very crowded and the rushing water was loud. We tossed a coin in the fountain to ensure our return to Italy. The fountain was completed in 1762. The figures are Neptune and two Tritons.

We next stopped at the Pantheon. Each column is a single piece of granite 40 feet in height. If you click on the photo, you can barely see Sally standing at the base of a column. The current structure was built around 120 A.D. It is a marvel of Roman engineering. They say it is the best preserved ancient building in Rome. It is lined with tombs holding the bodies of Italian monarchs. On day 2, we return when the Pantheon is open. More on that later.

The final stop on our walk was the Piazza Navona. Lots of entertainment with live music, jugglers, fire eaters, vendors, etc. We ate dinner outside on a beautiful evening.

We ate artichoke/shrimp salad for the antipasti. For the prima entree, we had ricotta/spinach ravioli and spagetti with meat sauce. The fresh ingredients made the sauce incredibly good. For the secondi, Rich had filet with gorgonzola cheese. Sally had veal with prochuetto. We had vino rossa - a Chianti. We topped off the feast with tiramisu and cappiciano.

It's a good thing we had a ways to walk back to the hotel after all that food! We were exhausted. It was a full day - literally. We had been traveling and touring for nearly 24 hours.

Day 2 in Rome: The Colosseum, Vatican City, and the Pantheon

We walked toward the Colosseum and began our day at Palatine Hill. It was built around 900 – 830 BC. There are ruins of imperial palaces. Marc Anthony lived here. Essentially, we’re talking an ancient gated community. One guy had a race track in his “back yard.”

Near the Palatine Hill stands the Arch of Constantine. It was build in AD 315. Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity. The story goes that Constantine attributed his victory in AD 312 over his co-emperor Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge to a dream. In the dream, he was told to mark his men’s shields with the first two Greek letters of Christ’s name (chi-rho). Most of the reliefs on the Arch, however, were from earlier pagan monuments.


On to the Colosseum. It opened in AD 80 and seated 55,000. We’re told that the Latin word, ‘arena,’ means sand. The wooden floor was covered with sand to absorb the blood. Below the floor was a network of halls, hoists, and cages.

Roman Gladiators were originally soldiers in training, but their combat became a sport. Slaves, prisoners of war or criminals were forced to fight men or wild animals. They say that at the “inaugural games” over 9,000 wild animals were killed. As we walked through the internal corridors, it reminded us of walking through the corridors in today’s football arenas. What did they do for tailgate parties?









We took the subway from the Colosseum over to Vatican City. We hired a guide to take us through the Vatican. We arrived early and had time to eat at Caffe Vaticano, directly across the street from the entrance. We ate an eggplant / tomato / mozzarella cheese sandwich. Rich continued the search for the world’s best tiramisu while Sally sampled the cannoli.

Teresa was our tour guide. She showed us the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s Basilica, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Square, Bernini’s Canopy (inside the Basilica), and the burial sites for various Popes, including Pope John Paul. Many were quite ornate. Pope John Paul’s is elegant in its simplicity. A large group was gathered around the area praying, crying, and paying their respects.



Pictures really don’t capture the incredible museum, the interior of St. Peter’s, or any other part we saw. (There are no pictures allowed in the Sistine Chapel or in the burial area). Seeing Michelangelo’s paintings in the Chapel was a treat.













One humorous anecdote that Teresa told us: All of the statues and paintings were of nude men and boys. The Lutherans and Protestants complained to the Vatican. The Vatican knocked off the private parts and added fig leaves. Over the famous paintings and frescos, hired artists added draped coverings over the groins. Teresa says people joke about where the Vatican stores all the penises.
In the square, they were preparing for a canonization ceremony that week. According to Teresa, the area with the banners is where one sees the new Pope, but is otherwise rarely used. Every week when the Pope is in residence, he addresses the great crowds from an upper floor window. If you look real close, you might be able to see him peeking through the blinds.

Guarding the Vatican are the Swiss Guards. Teresa believes the uniforms may have been designed by Michelangelo, but we’re not able to confirm that.


After our 3-hour tour, we headed back across the river toward the Pantheon before it closed at 7:30 pm. The dome is equal in radius to the height of the cylinder, giving it perfect proportions to the building. The only light enters through the oculus at the top of the dome.


We ate dinner at Café Gelateria Pasticceria in the Piazza del Pantheon. We shared an antipasto sampler. Rich had the lobster with pasta and tomato sauce. Sally had the chef’s tortellini with bacon, mushrooms and tomato sauce. Of course, we had to have our daily serving of gelato for dessert with a double cappuccino. We were exhausted after a long day and the walk back to the Sofitel Roma seemed to take forever. It didn’t help that in our exhaustion, we got turned around and retraced our steps a few times.


Next stop: Take the train to the east coast seaside resort located in Riccione.